(seriously though, I think Frank's just right for the band. Perfect for the role, in fact.
)]]>(seriously though, I think Frank's just right for the band. Perfect for the role, in fact.
)]]>Bleuz me wrote:Let's try this again. I don't know anyone who likes a drummer over playing.
Bleuz me wrote:Let's try this again. I don't know anyone who likes a drummer over playing.
)]]> )]]>
]]>]]>PeterS wrote: Built a fuzz using a couple of good ones, didn't like the sound that much, but I don't know whether it was Not Good, or maybe it was great but not my cuppa tea.
PeterS wrote: Built a fuzz using a couple of good ones, didn't like the sound that much, but I don't know whether it was Not Good, or maybe it was great but not my cuppa tea.
Oh maaan, after what I went through with two . . . . and if I turn up missing, just check the local mental hospital!]]>Also, matching transistors for a three transistor tonebender is a little harder than a fuzz which is a two transistor unit.
Oh maaan, after what I went through with two . . . . and if I turn up missing, just check the local mental hospital!]]>Also, matching transistors for a three transistor tonebender is a little harder than a fuzz which is a two transistor unit.
]]>]]>
]]>]]> rainbow wrote:Theese 2 pics. are no 2 amp, ...unknown resistor in the place where 820R should be,and cap also unknown . at least for me..logo is from the same amp,..\i have some difficulties with uploading photos,sorry for the quality....i expect one of this two, will be some time soon om sale, but you never know ...
]]>rainbow wrote:Theese 2 pics. are no 2 amp, ...unknown resistor in the place where 820R should be,and cap also unknown . at least for me..logo is from the same amp,..\i have some difficulties with uploading photos,sorry for the quality....i expect one of this two, will be some time soon om sale, but you never know ...
]]>
,,,i am in a better mood now! in a day or two]]> ,,,i am in a better mood now! in a day or two]]>]]>]]>central_scrutinizer wrote:Presence = 26.9K
]]>central_scrutinizer wrote:Presence = 26.9K
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]]>]]>Hi, Naked Clarke. Do you mean "without" a leather handle? Or, did you meant that all pre-1958 Bassmans had rubber handles? I believe the OP's picture of the 1958 Bassman has a rubber dogbone handle (I could be wrong) same as my 1960 Super Amp's rubber dogbone handle.Naked Clarke wrote:I have not found listed a single Bassman Amp with a leather handle prior to early 1959.
Hi, Naked Clarke. Do you mean "without" a leather handle? Or, did you meant that all pre-1958 Bassmans had rubber handles? I believe the OP's picture of the 1958 Bassman has a rubber dogbone handle (I could be wrong) same as my 1960 Super Amp's rubber dogbone handle.Naked Clarke wrote:I have not found listed a single Bassman Amp with a leather handle prior to early 1959.
]]>]]>Inventour wrote:I can't see by the pics posted, is the OT ground wire soldered to the frame of the OT?
It's not the best method, what I do is either clip the wire at the spot-solder to leave the
solder-spot original, then if the wire is long enough I run the wire through the hole and
solder it directly to the Speaker Jack Terminal. This gives you the best possible
speaker ground. Usually there is enough wire to run the Ground wire direct to the
Speaker Jack Ground Terminal. And sometimes I need to add a small piece of wire
to make it complete. Almost in every case there is plenty of wire to reach the jack
without having to add wire.
This is a big problem with amps that still have the 2 prong cord and un-grounded chassis.
Many times a hum resulted in people not using the polarity/ground switch, and or reversing
the 2 prong plug in the wall to help stop a hum. Don't forget about the death cap removal
when grounding the old amps.
I still need to ground my newly acquired pro amp to a 3-prong cord.
My favorite cord for the old tweeds is the 10' foot long 14 Ga. Panamax extension cord
that is used for a ground suppressor unit. It's a very high quality cable that coils easily
and lays flat when you un-coil and use it.
you can find them for a good price if you shop around, like 10.00. The color is the same as the old PEC cords.
Many guys us them for tweeds,
]]>Inventour wrote:I can't see by the pics posted, is the OT ground wire soldered to the frame of the OT?
It's not the best method, what I do is either clip the wire at the spot-solder to leave the
solder-spot original, then if the wire is long enough I run the wire through the hole and
solder it directly to the Speaker Jack Terminal. This gives you the best possible
speaker ground. Usually there is enough wire to run the Ground wire direct to the
Speaker Jack Ground Terminal. And sometimes I need to add a small piece of wire
to make it complete. Almost in every case there is plenty of wire to reach the jack
without having to add wire.
This is a big problem with amps that still have the 2 prong cord and un-grounded chassis.
Many times a hum resulted in people not using the polarity/ground switch, and or reversing
the 2 prong plug in the wall to help stop a hum. Don't forget about the death cap removal
when grounding the old amps.
I still need to ground my newly acquired pro amp to a 3-prong cord.
My favorite cord for the old tweeds is the 10' foot long 14 Ga. Panamax extension cord
that is used for a ground suppressor unit. It's a very high quality cable that coils easily
and lays flat when you un-coil and use it.
you can find them for a good price if you shop around, like 10.00. The color is the same as the old PEC cords.
Many guys us them for tweeds,
]]>]]>]]>
]]>]]>]]>]]>Swingville wrote:Also, how many sellers do not offer a year, but give a "range" or decade?
Swingville wrote:Also, how many sellers do not offer a year, but give a "range" or decade?
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